Don’t call it salami (because the proper name is charcuterie)

J.M. Stock Provisions charcuterie, clockwise from lower left: pepperoni, Stock ham, mortadella, Surryano ham (from Edwards Virginia Smokehouse), and paté de campagna. Photo: Morgan Salyer J.M. Stock Provisions charcuterie, clockwise from lower left: pepperoni, Stock ham, mortadella, Surryano ham (from Edwards Virginia Smokehouse), and paté de campagna. Photo: Morgan Salyer

Making charcuterie is an art, and the best meat artists in town can be found at J.M. Stock Provisions. “You have to receive the animal, break it down, use just the right balance of fat and lean, get the perfect matrix of textures, and chop, grind, and cook for hours,” says Alex Import, general manager. “A chef might say, ‘Why do all that when you can buy it from someone else?’ There’s nothing wrong with that mentality.” Likewise, there’s nothing wrong with JM Stock’s smoky, salty meats.



Three parts lean beef, one part fatty pork. Coarse, medium, and fine grinds. “You have to add the meat very carefully to keep your textures somewhat separate,” Import says. “That variation, and the flecks of pork fat, are what make this look pretty.” Seasoned with coriander, black pepper, and a “secret” mix of chilis, then hickory-smoked.

Stock ham

Pork from the hind leg, brined for five to 10 days in water with salt, sugar, coriander, mustard seed, black peppercorns, bay laurel, and chilis, then hickory-smoked. “We leave on the thick pork cap,” Import says. “It melts in your mouth, and if you make a panini with it, the flavor really stands out.”


The masterpiece of the meat case. Lean pork ground several times, then mixed with ice to promote emulsification and a “pillowy texture.” Chunks of blanched pork-jowl fat, pistachios, garlic, mace, coriander, and other spices are added before the mixture is encased in a natural beef skin. Finished by lengthy poaching at low temperature.

Surryano ham

An “import” to JM Stock made by Edwards Virginia Smokehouse, in Surry, Virginia. Heritage pork cuts are hand-rubbed with a proprietary mix of ingredients, hickory-smoked for seven days, and aged for more than 400 days. Sliced paper thin. Delicious with blanched asparagus or sweet melon.

Paté de campagna

Import calls it “fancy meatloaf.” No bread or flour added, so it’s gluten free. Fat and lean pork hand-chopped with offal (jowl, heart, liver). Seasoned with black pepper, dried ginger, mace, nutmeg, clove, and coriander. Super-rich. Good on its own or with crostini, cornichons, and coarse mustard.

J.M. Stock Provisions, 709 W. Main St, 244-2480,

Shout out

Import says that JM Stock’s charcuterie wouldn’t be nearly as good if it weren’t made from Patterson’s Register Berkshires, heritage hogs from Autumn Olive Farms, near Waynesboro.

Posted In:     Knife & Fork

Tags:     , , , , , , , ,

Previous Post

Concrete decision: Stinson Vineyards ferments in an egg that’s hard to beat

Next Post

My favorite bite: Pirate’s bounty

Our comments system is designed to foster a lively debate of ideas, offer a forum for the exchange of ad hoc information, and solicit honest, respectful feedback about the work we do. We’re glad you’re participating. Here are a few simple rules to follow, which should be relatively straightforward.

1) Don’t call people names or accuse them of things you cannot support.
2) Don’t direct foul language, racial slurs, or offensive terms at other commenters or our staff.
3) Don’t use the discussion on our site for commercial (or shameless personal) promotion.

We reserve the right to remove posts and ban commenters who violate any of the rules listed above, or the spirit of the discussion. We’re trying to create a safe space for a wide range of people to express themselves, and we believe that goal can only be achieved through thoughtful, sensitive editorial control.

If you have questions or comments about our policies or about a specific post, please send an e-mail to

Leave a Reply

Notify of