Hooch dreams

We like college basketball as much as the next person. But we like drinking even more. Which is why, this year, we’ve created a bracket of our own—16 of the city’s best spots for a cocktail, pitted against each other in the ultimate boozy battle. Find the bracket in this week’s paper, make your predictions for the winner, then follow along to see who wins each match-up from now until it all shakes out in our April 4 issue.

ROUND THREE

Oakhart Social’s Flora
Broker’s gin, strawberry, mint, basil, lemon, cava, cracked pepper

vs.

Junction’s Rum Communion
Brown butter-washed Pusser’s British Navy Rum, grilled pineapple and lime

The Flora at Oakhart Social is a bright and refreshing cocktail that begs to be enjoyed out on the patio on a summers afternoon. Strawberry shrub packs a lot of not too sweet not to sour flavor that is nicely offset by herbal gin and mint and basil syrup. To top if off, the cava gives it that great effervescent bite perfect for hot summer days. Junction’s Rum Communion is a different beast entirely. The recipe sounds simple. Brown-butter washed rum, grilled pineapple cordial and lime come together to make a smooth creamy Caribbean cocktail that surprises and delights. The creamy-sweet concoction probably works best as a dessert cocktail (could, in fact, make a passable stand-in for a pineapple topped sundae) but this sweet treat is worth ordering early and often. Make sure to save room.—Max March

And the winner is: Rum Communion.

To find out who won the final championship (is it Tavola’s Alpha & Omega or Junction’s Rum Communion?), click here.


The Alley Light’s Normandy Sour
Busnel Calvados brandy, Williams pear, verjus, lemon, egg white and Becherovka

vs.

Tavola’s Alpha & Omega
Baker’s bourbon, brown butter-washed Pedro Ximenez sherry, Asian pear, sherry vinegar, lemon, thyme

Have you ever seen a Harry & David catalog? You know the one—it shows up just before the holidays, touting expensive fruit-of-the-month clubs with photos of soft-fleshed pears cleaved smoothly in half, balancing on their ample bottom curves while sweating beads of lustrous juice. Crisp, these pears say. Crisp. And crisp is the best word to describe the Normandy Sour at The Alley Light, made from Busnel VSOP Calvados (a spirit described as having “a distinctive apple flavor”), Williams pear, verjus (an acidic, usually sour juice made from unripe grapes or crab apples), lemon, egg white and Becherovka (herbal bitters). Soft and round in texture and mouthfeel, creamy pale yellow in color and served with flowers drawn into the fragrant foam floating atop the cocktail, the Normandy Sour is a surprisingly subtle drink that should be enjoyed on its own—eating or drinking anything else would overpower its delicately lovely flavors.

In the Book of Revelation, Jesus proclaims, “I am the Alpha and the Omega, the First and the Last, the Beginning and the End” (Alpha and Omega being the first and last letters of the Greek alphabet). Whoever named this drink at Tavola’s Cicchetti bar wasn’t lying: It is the first and the last cocktail you’ll want to order, because after one sip, the prospect of ordering anything else off the menu flies out the window. Here’s why: The combination of Baker’s bourbon, brown butter-washed Pedro Ximénez sherry, Asian pear, sherry vinegar, lemon and thyme served up in a coupe makes for a nutty-sweet (but not too sweet) taste tempered with a bit of acid and the slightest herbal whiff. Neither the spherical flavor profile nor the silky smooth mouthfeel wilts as the drink sits for a bit, as is sometimes the case with cocktails. And while the drink’s components conjure up many a pleasant taste memory (like brown butter pecan pie baking in the oven at Thanksgiving), you’ll be hard-pressed to find anything else to satisfy the desire for this taste once the craving hits. The Alpha & Omega is a revelation in its own right.—Erin O’Hare

And the winner is: Alpha & Omega.


ROUND TWO

C&O Restaurant’s Jota Jota

Bulleit Rye, chili- and coffee-infused Campari, Carpano Antica vermouth

vs.

Junction’s Rum Communion

Brown butter-washed Pusser’s British Navy Rum, grilled pineapple and lime

The Jota Jota was named in honor of J.J., an IPA-loving C&O bartender, on his last day. Well, friends, if you, too, fall into the beer-is-my-drink-of-choice camp, consider this a fair warning: Get ready to come over to the dark side. The chile- and coffee-infused Campari and sweet vermouth balance out the bourbon, which is strong but not dominating. A little heat at the end of this drink—a riff on the Boulevardier—makes you thirsty for more.

As for the Rum Communion, I now know what sweet dreams are made of: rum. I’ve never been woken out of a dead sleep in the middle of the night craving a drink (except maybe that glass of water I should have had before shutting my eyes), but The Rum Communion is powerful enough to pull me out of a REM cycle. From the first creamy caramel notes (I’m going to start butter-washing everything now, don’t judge), to the lingering citrus tang, I knew after one sip I’d found my new go-drink.—Jessica Luck 

And the winner is: Rum Communion. 


Oakhart Social’s Flora

Broker’s gin, strawberry, mint, basil, lemon, cava, cracked pepper

vs.

Parallel 38’s Persian Collins

Hendrick’s gin, Sekanjabin syrup, cucumber, citrus, soda

Frothy, refreshing, not quite sour but not quite sweet, the Persian Collins at Parallel 38 counts sekanjabin, a traditional Iranian drink made from honey and vinegar, as one of its components. There’s Bluecoat gin (it’s a Collins, after all), house-made sour, muddled cucumber, citrus and soda, too, with some sliced cucumbers for garnish (i.e., a built-in snack). It’s easy to see why this very drinkable cocktail is one of the restaurant’s most popular, and the use of sekanjabin is really interesting. Ultimately, that flavor is diminished by the muddled cucumber and sour.

Mmmm. Mmmhm. Mmmmmhmmm. Yes please and thank you, Oakhart Social’s Flora. The Broker’s gin, strawberry, mint, basil, lemon, Cava and cracked pepper drink is flavorful without being overwhelming. As the drink rolls over the tongue, its components hit all taste areas just right, so that the drinker experiences each subtle flavor on its own but also in combination with the others. It’s like the taste equivalent to hearing a group of singers harmonizing, where you hear them all together while remaining aware of each singer’s individual vocal quality. This drink has a bit of fizz, a bit of bite and a lot of flavor.—Erin O’Hare

And the winner is: Flora.

 

Tavola’s Alpha & Omega

Baker’s bourbon, brown butter-washed Pedro Ximenez sherry, Asian pear, sherry vinegar, lemon, thyme

vs.

Maya’s Femme Fatale

Vodka, St-Germain, lime, sugar and pineapple mixed with habañero salt

Maya’s Femme Fatale is a creative summer concoction  that approaches some familiar island cocktail flavors with some fun twists. ​Pineapple juice and a house made sour mix provide a fruity foundation that is put over the top by the inclusion of habanero salt dissolved directly into the drink. This punches up and rounds out the flavors into a potent sweet-spicy combination reminiscent of spicy dried mango in sweet drinkable form. Tavola’s Alpha & Omega goes a different direction. Brown-butter washed sherry, pear, sherry vinegar, and lemon combine to create a powerful nostalgia for oven fresh apple pie in the fall. This creamy, almost bread-y cocktail seems like the perfect desert for any autumn (or spring, or summer) meal. —Max March

And the winner is: Alpha & Omega.


The Alley Light’s Normandy Sour
Busnel Calvados brandy, Williams pear, verjus, lemon, egg white and Becherovka

vs.

The Fitzroy’s house tonic
Housemade tonic of various citrus and spices, choice of spirit (vodka, gin or tequila)

I’ll just go out on a limb and say The Fitzroy’s gin and tonic—and particularly its house tonic, which has a sweeter finish than most of the slightly astringent versions you find in a classic G&T—might be the best in town. With two citrus slices of lime and grapefruit, it’s basically a snack and I’ll be back for more. Hard to argue with Micah LeMon’s Normandy Sour, though. Its decorated egg-white froth gives way to a juicy mix of pear and apple (from the brandy), making a refreshing coupe-full.—Caite White

And the winner is: Normandy Sour. 


ROUND ONE

Lost Saint’s From the Key to the Cay

Plantation 3 Star rum, Remy Martin VSOP Cognac, Laird’s Straight Applejack 86, Lagavulin 16, lemon, jack fruit syrup 

vs.

Junction’s Rum Communion

Brown butter-washed Pusser’s British Navy Rum, grilled pineapple and lime

It’s a particular goal of Lost Saint to not only provide guests with a delicious cocktail, but also some context for what they’re drinking. From the Key to the Cay (a play on a basketball key and a coral reef) is no exception. Bar manager Carrie Hodgkins told me this cocktail is a play on Fish House Punch, a rum-based drink that once got George Washington so hammered he didn’t write in his journal for three days straight. Lost Saint’s version replaces the traditional peach brandy with apple from Laird’s and arrives, dainty and delicious, in a teacup. It’s juicy and light and I could have sipped it for hours. It was Junction’s Rum Communion, though, that may have my heart forever. A “really updated” riff on a daiquiri, says bar manager Alec Spidalieri, it’s bold and sugary. I kept thinking it would be heaven poured over vanilla ice cream or gingerbread cake (my dentist loves me). And while it’s certainly more rustic than the overly sweet traditional daiquiri, it’s still perfect for dessert.—Caite White

And the winner is: Rum Communion.


Brasserie Saison’s 23 Skidoo

Bulleit Rye, Aperol, amaro, lemon, charred lemon bitters

vs.

C&O Restaurant’s Jota Jota

Bulleit Rye, chili- and coffee-infused Campari, Carpano Antica vermouth

Brasserie’s 23 Skidoo brings a balanced herbal lemon flavor that bounces back and forth between bright citrus sweetness and a pleasant bitterness that nevertheless lingers a bit too long of the palate for my liking. C&O’s Jota Jota is a surprising pick-me-up cocktail that combines the bittersweet flavors of morning coffee with warm bourbon and a spicy kick (and I do mean spicy). Both were a delight, but I’m giving this one to C&O for the surprising combination that left me wide awake and ready for a top-off.—Max March

And the winner is: Jota Jota.


Parallel 38’s Persian Collins
Hendrick’s gin, sekanjabin syrup, cucumber, citrus, soda

vs.

Ten’s Lychee Martini
Ketel One, Domaine de Canton, lychee, grapefruit

This wasn’t easy. It’s hard to compare apples to oranges or, in this case, cucumbers to lychees. While the lychee martini was very unique in its flavor and really quite refreshing—on a hot day, I could gulp it (and then take a long nap)—the Persian Collins had me at cucumber. And the addition of Sekanjabin, a mint and vinegar simple syrup made in-house, gave it a sweet/sour note that made it infinitely drinkable.—Aimee Atteberry 

And the winner is: Persian Collins.


Oakhart Social’s Flora
Broker’s gin, strawberry, mint, basil, lemon, cava, cracked pepper

vs.

The Whiskey Jar’s Apple Pie Mule
House-made apple pie-infused Evan Green Label whiskey, lemon juice, brown sugar, ginger beer and bitters

The house-made, apple pie-infused whiskey offers a subtle spice note to The Whiskey Jar’s Apple Pie Mule, whose sweetness is cut by the ginger beer and lemon. The ginger beer—a standard mule ingredient—provides a nice balance and effervescence to the drink, which is perfect for these last few weeks of winter. When it comes to Oakhart’s Flora, “pretty” is the best word to describe this bright-pink drink that makes you feel all warm and fuzzy on first glance. The strawberry flavor is subtle, and is the perfect partner to the floral gin. The cracked black pepper provides another dimension to the drink, and makes me wonder why I’m not putting that in my homemade G&Ts.—Jessica Luck

And the winner is: Flora.


Bang’s Lavendays
Gin, sage, lavender, pomegranate, lemongrass and fresh lemon juice

vs.

Maya’s Femme Fatale
Vodka, St-Germain, lime, sugar and pineapple mixed with habañero salt

When I was a kid growing up in Massachusetts, no matter how freakin’ cold it was outside, I always took my gloves off when my family went Christmas tree shopping. The reason? I liked to lick the pine tree sap off my hands once we were in the car. So when I started drinking alcohol, it’s no surprise that I gravitated towards gin. Bang!’s Lavendays cocktail, a big, sip-able drink, is herbal, earthy and refreshing, and I imagine it’ll be perfect on a hot summer’s day, when the memory of licking Christmas tree sap off your hands (I can’t be the only one who did this) in the snow is about the only thing that can cool you down.

When Maya bar manager Ted Norris first created this pale yellow, slightly frothy drink, he served it to his wife. After a couple of sips, she insisted he name the vodka, St-Germain, pineapple juice, habanero salt and sour mix concoction after a woman, because it starts of sweet before bringing some serious heat. Served up, in a martini glass with a triangle barb of lime rind, the Femme Fatale is sweet at first–few things are sweeter than pineapple juice. But when that habanero salt–which is mixed into the drink instead of stuck on the rim–hits the back of the tongue and sticks around for more than just a moment, it’s a really surprising, then intriguing and ultimately satisfying adventure for your taste buds.—Erin O’Hare

And the winner is: Femme Fatale. 


Tavola’s Alpha & Omega
Baker’s bourbon, brown butter-washed Pedro Ximenez sherry, Asian pear, sherry vinegar, lemon, thyme

vs.

Zocalo’s Paraíso
Mezcal, hibiscus tea, simple syrup, lime

We’re not even sure what brown-butter washed sherry is, but with Baker’s bourbon, Asian pear and sherry vinegar, Tavola’s Alpha & Omega is the beginning and the end. Topped with a sprig of fresh thyme, the purple, foamy cocktail is sweet, sour and tangy in all the right ways. Paraiso, on the other hand, means “paradise” in Spanish. Zocalo uses smoky Vida mezcal and homemade hibiscus tea —hibiscus, ginger, mint leaves and sugar, and the tall magenta concoction is indeed a taste of paradise.—Lisa Provence

And the winner is: Alpha & Omega.


The Fitzroy’s house tonic
Housemade tonic of various citrus and spices, choice of spirit (vodka, gin or tequila)

vs.

Hamiltons’ at First & Main’s Dark Horse
Eagle Rare 10-year bourbon, Carpano Antica Formula and black walnut bitters

The Dark Horse is a deeply flavorful drink with coffee-dark chocolate undertones provided by Carpano Antica, which is a warm companion to the very smooth Eagle Rare 10-year bourbon. The combo results in an elevated twist on the Manhattan that adds walnut bitters to counter the sweet. Meanwhile, the house tonic titillates with a zing of allspice, tarted up with lime and grapefruit to pull off a balancing act with the fennel seed and cane sugar, making it just sweet enough for an earthy, refreshing gin and tonic.—Tami Keaveny

And the winner is: House tonic.


The Alley Light’s Normandy Sour
Busnel Calvados brandy, Williams pear, verjus, lemon, egg white and Becherovka

VS.

Rocksalt’s French 1705
Gin, St-Germain, lemon juice, sparkling wine and pepper

The French apple brandy—or Busnel VSOP Calvados—used in Alley Light’s Normandy Sour makes for a surprisingly frothy, fruity and spicy cocktail. With notes of pear and lemon, it’s crafted with egg white, verjus and herbal bitters. Delicieux. Meanwhile, Rocksalt’s French 1705 mixes gin, elderflower liquor and sparking wine. There’s a quizzical contrast of sour lime juice and an herbal garnish. But it works! Shout-out to the maraschino cherry swimming at the bottom.—Samantha Baars

And the winner is: The Normandy Sour.