While the rest of us have been busy following other Belmont news, namely the controversy over a re-zoning application that would permit an existing residence on Hinton Avenue to become a restaurant—a decision that the City Council voted favorably on last week (click here for more)—a few doors down at the old Crush Wine Shop, Tavola has been taking shape. By the time you read this, Michael Keaveny’s cozy new eatery may have opened, quietly, but when we stopped by last week, Keaveny and his crew, including former enoteca manager (and C-VILLE wine writer) Megan Headley, were heads down in the last-minute details. When asked whether he had any input on the uproar over the Southern Crescent rezoning debacle—Keaveny shook his head and laughed. “We’ve been too busy,” he says.

Having bought Crush in March, Keaveny had predicted a May opening for Tavola, but with new restaurant preparations being what they are (unpredictable) coupled with the added complexity of turning a tiny retail shop into a full kitchen and dining room, opening this month seems right on schedule to us. The space, which accommodates between 37 and 41 diners, is a study in efficiency and classic-meets-modern design. Hanging down from the vintage tin ceiling is the most prominent feature in the room: the shiny commercial hood that marks the open kitchen that includes a full range, commercial refrigerator and wine cooler tucked behind an L-shaped bar made of walnut and heart pine. Ribbons of shiny copper flashing between the walnut boards seem to both echo and serve as a counterpoint to the sparkling new stainless steel appliances. Remarkably, the placement of the massive kitchen equipment makes the small space appear even larger than before; although, with the whole restaurant not much bigger than your average suburban American’s kitchen these days, dining at Tavola may very well seem like communing at your own family’s tavola.
 
Diners who choose to sit at the bar will have the added entertainment of watching Keaveny and his sous chef—Culinary Institute of America grad and Richmond transplant Travis Hawthorne—prepare Tavola’s line-up of antipasti, zuppa e insalata, pasta e risotto, carne e pesce, contorni and dolci before their eyes. With such a small operation, the dishes will be fresh, seasonal and frequently changing. A chalkboard indicates the daily specials, but look for the menu to swing from traditional Italian—spaghetti con vongole (clams, pancetta, pereroncini, garlic)—to contemporary spins on homey fare—spalla di maiale alla griglia (grilled pork shoulder, rosemary pesto, apple-fennel salad), with everything under $20. Though the dishes are not exclusively Italian, the menu is arranged in the multi-course style of an Italian meal. Just like at a big family dinner, Keaveny says, “We want everything to be approachable and we want there to be a lot of food on the table.” Headley adds: “We want the kind of rustic atmosphere where you can reach across the table and sample your spouse’s dish without getting funny looks.”

The wine list, put together by Headley, covers all of the major Old World and New World regions, but focuses on small producers and value-driven wines. A reserve list of more expensive bottles is included, but most selections are in the $20-50 range and are available by the glass, carafe (half bottle) or bottle.

Tavola’s hours will be 5-10 pm, Tuesday-Thursday; 5-11pm, Friday-Saturday; and on Monday nights starting in August, Headley will teach wine classes with food pairings included. For more information, call 434-972-9463.