Best of C-VILLE 2018: Food & Drink

Photo: Morgan Salyer
Photo: Amy Jackson
RESTAURANT

Lampo

Runner-up: The Local

Honorable mention: Al Carbon

Good things, they say, come in small packages. And the best things come from Lampo. The pint-sized Neapolitan pizzeria opened in 2014 to rave reviews and since then has set the standard for just plain good food in our area. Don’t get us wrong—“just plain good” doesn’t mean boring. Somehow, the boys of Lampo (including this year’s best chef, Ian Redshaw) know just how to craft a dish—from antipasti to dolci—that straddles the line between familiar and exciting. Sure, you’ll find a traditional margherita pizza on the menu, but you’ll also be tempted by the Hellboy, a permanent special that combines salami and mozzarella with orange blossom honey and scorpion oil. Down the street at The Local, executive chef Matthew Hart serves a farm-to-table menu that showcases the best of the area, from Buffalo Creek short ribs to Appalachia Star greens.

NEW RESTAURANT

Three Notch’d Craft Kitchen & Brewery

Runner-up: Junction

Honorable mention: Iron Paffles & Coffee

By the time Three Notch’d opened its 17,400-square-foot space at IX, the craft brewery had already established three taprooms, plus locations in Harrisonburg and Richmond. What it didn’t have, the owners felt, was a flagship location—somewhere that served as an anchor for the brand. The new spot, which opened in fall 2017, expands the brewing operations and offers a full German brewpub menu. (Try the pretzel bites, which the restaurant pairs with a beer cheese made with its own 40 Mile IPA.) Long-awaited Junction, in Belmont, opened in late 2017 with a menu of inventive modern Mexican dishes at the hand of celebrated local chef Melissa Close-Hart.

BAR

The Alley Light

Runner-up: Three Notch’d Craft Kitchen & Brewery

Honorable mention: Kardinal Hall

By now, you know the drill: Peek through the gate down the alley off Second Street SW and, if the light is on, The Alley Light is ready to serve. Once up the stairs, you’ll find bar manager Micah LeMon and his team serving up classics and originals, all with housemade ingredients (think tonics, bitters and syrups) that make each concoction one of a kind. If you’re looking for something a bit more caszh, pull up a yellow stool to Three Notch’d’s concrete bar, where the IX brewery pours its flagship and seasonal brews from more than 40 taps.

SPORTS BAR

Citizen Burger Bar

Runner-up: Kardinal Hall

Honorable mention: Wild Wing Café

Walk into the Downtown Mall burger spot any given afternoon, and you’ll see a full bar of spectators with eyes trained on one of the many TVs behind it, their hands absentmindedly lifting a grass-fed burger to their lips. Golf, basketball, the World Cup—each goes down better with a beer and an American Classic. Readers say the combo is undeniable. At Kardinal Hall, choose from more than 50 beers on offer and take a seat in front of a big screen or play a game yourself. Kardinal’s home to popular board game Chickapig and an outdoor bocce court.

COFFEEHOUSE

Shenandoah Joe

Runner-up: Mudhouse

Honorable mention: MarieBette Café & Bakery

Bigger is better. That’s true of a cup of coffee and that’s true of Shenandoah Joe’s Preston Avenue coffee shop, which in late 2017 underwent a significant expansion. The resulting design capitalized on what caffeine fiends loved about the old space: a cozy area for lounging and sipping and a large section for the roastery (and the consequent waft of fresh brew). In the runner-up spot, Mudhouse shines with multiple locations, thoughtfully sourced beans and a few national awards under its lid.

BRUNCH

MarieBette Café & Bakery

Runner-up: Bluegrass Grill & Bakery

Honorable mention: Tip Top

Whether you’re in the mood for sweet (try the stuffed French toast) or savory (recommended: simple baked eggs, enhanced with just herbs, cream and garlic), expect a wait outside this popular Rose Hill Drive eatery come brunch time. In the few years since they opened, owners Jason Becton and Patrick Evans have turned their bakery, named for their daughters Marian and Betty, into a must-visit spot for breakfast, lunch and take-home treats. In second place, a longstanding Charlottesville fave: Known for its signature muffiny-sconey biscuits, Bluegrass also often has a line snaking out the door. No matter: It’s worth the wait.

DRAFT BEER SELECTION

Draft Taproom

Runner-up: Beer Run

Honorable mention: Sedona Taphouse

It’s not exactly BYOB, but it is PYOB—pour your own beer. Downtown’s Draft Taproom offers 60 brews on tap, with a twist: Serve yourself. Fill up your pint (or take enough for a little taste) with Starr Hill, Champion or any number of featured breweries from around the country, and your card is automatically charged by the ounce. At Beer Run, expect a variety of choices: The popular Carlton Road spot offers tripels, stouts, IPAs and then some, plus weekday happy hours from 3- 6pm.


Photos: Tom McGovern, Amy Jackson, Martyn Kyle

C-VILLE SAYS BEST SUGAR HIGH

Bake news

A bevy of bakeries is just what we knead

If anything can be said for sure about Charlottesville, it’s that the city has a major sweet tooth. The staggering variety of bakeries in the area has made the region a veritable sugary hot spot—but we’re not complaining! Here are some of the local bakeries that truly rise to the top.

Albemarle Baking Co.

This Main Street Market spot is one of Charlottesville’s baked goods juggernauts. If you’ve enjoyed bread at a restaurant in town, odds are it’s from Albemarle Baking Co. But that’s not all —ABC also creates luscious tarts, muffins and scones, as well as cakes (including the much-ballyhooed princess cake).

BreadWorks

Focusing on providing a place to work for disabled individuals, BreadWorks seamlessly combines a powerful initiative and a top-notch bakery. Owned by WorkSource VA, the Preston Plaza shop employs disabled people at each level of production.

Chandler’s Bakery

Sticky buns, donuts, pies, cakes and pastries—Chandler’s Bakery is as pure as they come. Located in a simple storefront in Rio Hill Center, it’s provided made-from-scratch treats since 1992.

MarieBette Café & Bakery

MarieBette is nearly impossible to avoid, and that’s certainly not a bad thing. Its pastries and baked goods reach every corner of Charlottesville, so it’s never hard to find what you’re craving, be it a pain au chocolat or a sticky bun.

Moon Maiden’s Delights

What began as a City Market stall serving sprouted-grain, gluten-free and vegan cakes and pastries, such as cranberry pear rolls with carob frosting and berry garnish and salty maple-glazed coconut brownies, took root in York Place last fall, giving more access to those interested in mindful eating.

Paradox Pastry

According to Paradox Pastry owner Jenny Peterson, the bakery is a public version of her mom’s kitchen. We’d imagine that, like Paradox, it must have smelled delicious. There’s nothing like walking into the Glass Building spot and sniffing out a delish morsel (or an entire Italian cream cake).

Patisserie Torres

With a name this conspicuously French, the experience of eating one of Serge Torres’ signature pastries (we’re suckers for the madeleines) will send your mind across the pond to Paris. Luckily, your body need only go to the Downtown Mall, where Torres and Fleurie owner Brian Helleberg opened a pastry shop this summer.

Quality Pie

This new Belmont spot doesn’t beat around the bush: What you see on the sign is what you get, from handmade pies (sweet and savory!) to espresso and teas. Brought to the former Spudnuts space by former Mas chef Tomas Rahal, the newest addition to Charlottesville’s sweets scene has a promising pedigree.

Sweethaus

For those interested in indulging, but not too much, Sweethaus’ mini cupcakes—in flavors like pistachio, grasshopper mint and red velvet with cream cheese frosting —are just what you’re looking for. Or go for the regular size before scanning the shelves filled with non-baked goods like hard-to-find candies.

The Pie Chest

Thousands of pies can be found on the downtown shop’s shelves each year, in flavors from triple citrus to banana rum cream. So it’s not surprising that owner Rachel Pennington had to open a second location. The East High Street shop has the same treats we’ve come to expect, but with a bigger kitchen. Translation: more, more, more.—SP


RESTAURANT WINE LIST

Tavola

Runner-up: The Alley Light

Honorable mention: Fleurie

In the two years she’s been managing the wine program at Tavola, Priscilla Martin has enacted some significant changes, not only making the Belmont restaurant’s wine list more accessible and reasonably priced, but reaching out to others in the food community to create memorable collaborations, like helping to save an orphaned Pinot Gris from Michael Shaps Wineworks from extinction by bottling it and serving it at the restaurant. Downtown at The Alley Light, local wines take center stage on the extensive menu.

PATIO

Blue Mountain Brewery

Runner-up: Brazos Tacos

Honorable mention: Kardinal Hall

According to the Environmental Protection Agency, the average American is only spending 7 percent of her life outdoors. But does the EPA know about Blue Mountain? Because, listen, try to snag a spot on its patio on an autumn Saturday and all statistics go out the window. Whether you’re under the pergola or at a table beneath one of the brightly colored umbrellas (or, if you’re really trying to soak up some Vitamin D, down by the cornhole boards), readers say the Afton brewpub is the place to be. Back in town at IX, Brazos’ Austin-style tacos make the perfect companion to fresh air and sunshine.

Photo: Amy Jackson
CHEF

Ian Redshaw (Lampo)

Runner-up: Craig Hartman (BBQ Exchange)

Honorable mention: Dean Maupin (C&O)

Six years ago, before we’d barely even gotten a taste of his talents, then-l’étoile chef de cuisine Ian Redshaw told a C-VILLE writer that his five-year plan included opening a simple Italian restaurant serving authentic Roman food. And how would he get there? “Work hard and keep your head down.” That’s difficult to do when your menu includes the city’s best pizza (and then some) and folks can’t stop buzzing about it, but either way, his dream came true. Over in Gordonsville, Craig Hartman translates his fine-dining background to no-frills, real Virginia barbecue.

BARTENDER

Micah LeMon (The Alley Light)

Runner-up: Brett Harder (The Whiskey Jar)

Honorable mention: Josh Stevens (Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint)

No surprise here: You’ll find the best bartender behind the best bar. Micah LeMon’s been back there since the restaurant opened in 2014 and has taken this title each year since. Readers know he’s the local authority in everything from classics to inventive tiki drinks—and the go-to mixologist when it comes to helping you discover a new favorite. Down the street at The Whiskey Jar, Brett Harder pours from the restaurant’s list of 125+ ryes, whiskeys, bourbons and scotches, and then there’s the menu of craft cocktails.


Illustration: Jason Crosby

C-VILLE SAYS BEST THROWBACK

Brews and Bingo

Charity games at Random Row get heated

“N 33” shoots out of the caller’s mouth and, “Bingo!” Multiple voices shout it out at once, sending screeches through the air as people push their chairs away from their tables with both hands and race toward the prizes. The first one there wins, so a girl in white jeans throws her arms out to block a guy in a blue-striped shirt, who’s hustling behind her in the same direction. Will he break away? Will he take the lead? Nope—she’s faster. And the crowd goes wild!

But then it’s on to the next round—and back to near-silent concentration.

Betsy O’Brien started hosting monthly Bingo competitions through her events and marketing company, Little Bee, at Random Row Brewery in February 2017, and she and the brew crew have been doing it ever since. Ten game cards cost $5, and the proceeds go toward that month’s selected charity, as does $1 from every pint of beer guzzled during the game.

“We wanted to do something a little different that helped connect the brewery to the surrounding community,” says head brewer Kevin McElroy. “We definitely didn’t think it would grow to the size it has today. The first couple of Bingo nights weren’t anything like what they are now.”

O’Brien says they average about $900 in donations per game, with nonprofits such as Moms Demand Action Against Gun Violence and Loaves and Fishes recent recipients of the funds.

But there’s a lot in it for the participants, too—we assume that’s why the competition is so stiff. A few of the most sought-after goodies that come to mind for O’Brien are tickets to UVA games and shows at the Sprint Pavilion and the Jefferson, an autographed football from Chris Long, handcrafted pottery and countless gift cards, all donated from local people and businesses.

And it’s just a downright good time. (We’d be remiss not to mention the hilarity that ensues when the caller says “O 69.”)—SB


SPECIALTY FOOD SHOP

Feast!

Runner-up: Foods of All Nations

Honorable mention: The Pie Chest

The largest selection of cured meats in Virginia; local and international cheeses, hand-selected by award-winning cheesemongers; a homemade lunch menu of inventive sandwiches and salads. The list of reasons locals love Feast! is almost as long as its list of accolades. For 16 years, the Main Street Market shop has made readers believers in shopping (and tasting) local. Off Ivy Road, Foods of All Nations stocks imported and domestic fare, plus a deli counter with specialty meats like head cheese or Lachsschinken, a dry-cured pork loin that takes on the flavors of salmon when aged.

LOCAL WINERY

King Family Vineyards

Runner-up: Pippin Hill Farm and Vineyards

Honorable mention: Barboursville Winery

Is it the view of the Blue Ridge Mountains? Is it Sunday polo matches? Is it the selection of wine, finely tuned by winemaker Matthieu Finot? Our best guess, it’s all of these things that keeps readers excited to try any and all of the Crozet winery’s creations. In second place, Pippin Hill’s six acres makes boutique wines from sauvignon blanc, petit verdot and viognier grapes, which the kitchen pairs with its celebrated farm-to-table menu.

LOCAL BREWERY

Three Notch’d Brewing Company

Runner-up: Blue Mountain Brewery

Honorable mention: Devils Backbone Brewing Company

Harrisonburg, Richmond, Charlottesville and, soon, Roanoke? When readers choose Best Local Brewery, they choose one they’ll be able to visit—no matter how far they roam (except Rome)—for APAs, IPAs, sours and then some, each in the brew house’s signature rustic-industrial space. Up Route 151, Blue Mountain boasts 10 beers on tap and a robust menu with burgers, pizzas and sandwiches galore.

LOCAL CIDERY

Bold Rock Hard Cider

Runner-up: Potter’s Craft Cider

Honorable mention: Albemarle CiderWorks

Make it all the way to the summit of Mount Bold Rock, an 801.5-foot elevation (don’t worry, it’s just a ramp from the parking lot to the front door), and you’ve earned a cold Virginia Apple. Or, if you prefer, one of the Nellysford cidery’s seasonal offerings—blackberry, blood orange or even rosé, which debuted in early 2018. City-side, find runner-up Potter’s Craft at its Bridge Progressive Arts Initiative tasting room and cider garden, and get your hands on a glass of grapefruit hibiscus or Farmhouse Dry.

BAKERY

MarieBette Café & Bakery

Runner-up: Albemarle Baking Co.

Honorable mention: Chandler’s Bakery

First came the brioche feuilletée (aka the bronut, a hybrid of brioche, donut and croissant, which earned mentions in Food & Wine and on Thrillist), then the prezzant (part pretzel, part croissant). There’s no telling what the French bakery will come up with next, but we’re happy to keep eating financiers in the meantime. Runner-up ABC charms with beautiful tarts, pastries and breads (not to mention the baked donuts —an impossibly fluffy-yet-dense confection generously dipped in sugar).


Photo: Morgan Salyer

C-VILLE SAYS BEST KITCHEN HACK

Special sauces

Take-home toppings from your favorite eateries

To fool your guests into thinking you’re an expert saucier, or simply to enjoy your favorite restaurant flavors on a night in, these offerings from local eateries let you effortlessly recreate the culinary magic at home.

Aromas Café in Fontaine Research Park bottles its own Habiba Moroccan spicy sauce for patrons to relive the smoky, savory kick infused with Mediterranean herbs and spices. Great on lamb, seafood, beef and veggies.

Smoked Kitchen and Tap in Crozet sells a variety of homemade barbecue sauces, such as Carolina Firewater, Sweet Virginia Blackberry and Low Country Mustard, each a delicious way to top off your own grilled masterpiece.

Mona Lisa Pasta makes every one of its in-house pasta sauces available to take home, from amatriciana to vodka cream. Manager Christa Smith says the marinara may be the most versatile—she puts it on everything.

Feast! jars its housemade pickled cauliflower and curtido (El Salvadoran pickled vegetables) and dressings such as lemon tahini, as well as salsas and spreads. Manager Jenn Spofford says the Green Goddess dressing is a customer favorite, though she’s partial to the Queso Dip, surprisingly great on a baked sweet potato.

Timberlake’s Drug Store bottles a single (very useful) product, homemade vanilla extract, for a sweet local boost to cookies and granola.—LM


THAI

Monsoon Siam

Runner-up: Thai 99 II

Honorable mention: Thai Cuisine & Noodle House

When Monsoon co-owner Kitty Ashi arrived in the United States in 2006, she had just $500 to her name. Hard work (and a partnership with a friend from art school) eventually grew that to $20,000, which enabled her to buy Monsoon and turn it into Charlottesville’s best Thai restaurant. It might even be Madison, Wisconsin’s best restaurant, too: In 2014, the business partners opened a second (remote) location. Thai 99 II up 29N nabs the runner-up spot with traditional favorites and specialty dishes like crispy duck and volcano chicken.

INDIAN

Milan Indian Cuisine

Runner-up: Himalayan Fusion

Honorable mention: Maharaja

Of course the Emmet Street restaurant serves reliable standards from biryani to vindaloo, but by all accounts, Milan’s lunch buffet is where the magic happens. First, two words: unlimited naan. Ordering the buffet comes with stacks on stacks of hot, fluffy naan right to the table. Next, vegetarian-friendly. Choose a pakora, paneer or a side of salad from the salad bar. Finally, dessert: Skip the mango lassi and indulge in Indian custard and rice pudding (also on the buffet) instead. In second place, Himalayan Fusion’s $9 lunch spread gives downtown diners a taste of Indian, Nepalese and Tibetan cuisine.

MEXICAN

Guadalajara

Runner-up: La Michoacana

Honorable mention: Continental Divide

“Mexican food by Mexican folks,” the Guadalajara entry in C-VILLE’s dining guide has read for years. And you’d think it wouldn’t get much better than that, except that each of the restaurant’s four locations offers margs the size of a small fish bowl, complimentary chips and salsa to start and no one blinks an eye when you roll up with seven friends and spend the whole meal cackling over inside jokes (just us?). Runner-up La Michoacana earns your vote with traditional Mexican tacos, the kind Anthony Bourdain might have raved about—just meat, onion, cilantro and lime, served in a hole-in-the-wall spot off East High Street.

JAPANESE

Now and Zen

Runner-up: Ten

Honorable mention: Sakura

The downtown-adjacent sushi spot from former Tokyo Rose chef Toshi Sato may be the size of a postage stamp (or, say, the size of a sushi roll?), but it packs a lot of flavor. Take, for instance, the crunch roll, a combo of tempura shrimp, avocado and crab stick, covered in tempura flakes with a side of eel sauce, or even the regular special blue crab miso soup, which includes half a crustacean in the salty broth. Runner-up Ten wows year after year with upscale Japanese dishes and popular cocktails.

ITALIAN

Tavola

Runner-up: Lampo

Honorable mention: Travinia Italian Kitchen & Wine Bar

Next year, Tavola will celebrate its 10-year anniversary, and with it comes a number of greatest hits —hit recipes and interesting pop- ups (remember Marco Polo?) that demonstrate owner Michael Keaveny’s range and dynamic collaborations, as in 2016 when the restaurant partnered with a Tuscan chef from Charlottesville’s Italian sister city, Poggio a Caiano. Any restaurant-goer knows it’s innovation that keeps us curious, but a plate full of Tavola’s signature pappardelle doesn’t hurt either. A few blocks over, Neapolitan pizza joint Lampo nabs the second place spot for authentic pies and small plates.


Holmes Dinner Club started in a less formal setting: owner Stephanie DeVaux’s college apartment. Photo: Audra Jones Photography

C-VILLE SAYS BEST HOME-COOKED MEAL

Supper club special

Stephanie DeVaux makes room for dinner

Holmes Dinner Club happened by accident. Or, rather, by good fortune. In college, founder Stephanie DeVaux would host small, informal dinner parties for friends. “When I say informal, I mean friends would toss me $10, come over on a Sunday, fill up paper plates from the buffet spread on my kitchen table, sit on my floor and chow down,” she says. The dinners weren’t earning her any money (she recalls that, of a dozen, she turned a profit—“eight whole dollars”—just once), but that wasn’t the point.

“Watching people talk and laugh and make real connections over a meal is the most magical thing in the world,” DeVaux says. “Food bridges the gap between people in a really special way.”

So, in the fall of 2017, after the company she was working for shuttered unexpectedly, she found herself attending culinary school at PVCC, staging for chef Robin McDaniel at The Alley Light and wanting to further immerse herself in cooking. Holmes Dinner Club, named after the street she lives on, came naturally.

DeVaux spent a few months developing the first four-course menu, a refined take on childhood comfort foods—PB&J foie gras (whipped foie gras, grape confiture and salted peanut texture) and chicken noodle consommé (housemade noodles, enoki mushroom, herb-infused chicken consommé) among them —and invited friends for the first event in January 2018.

She’s cooked a chocolate-themed menu, a spring menu and a traditional Italian meal so far, each one four courses for $65.

With only 12 seats available at each dinner, Holmes’ founder might need to start looking for a bigger space. But she says that’s a ways down the road. Besides, she likes the forced intimacy in the small space, and harkening back to Holmes’ roots.

“Hosting [HDC] in my home is a special thing for me,” DeVaux says. “Where I usually sit with a glass of wine after a long day is all of a sudden replaced by a dozen people eating, drinking and laughing. Like I said, kind of magical.”—CH


FRENCH

Fleurie

Runner-up: MarieBette Café & Bakery

Honorable mention: Bizou

When Jose de Brito—the former Alley Light chef whose other local highlights include HotCakes and Ciboulette—left town to pick up an apron at the Inn at Little Washington, locals thought that might have been the last we’d hear of him. But when he returned in 2017, he landed right where he belongs: In the kitchen at Fleurie. A Charlottesville fine-dining standard-bearer, the downtown restaurant takes the win for its romantic atmosphere, beautiful plating and exquisite tasting menu. In second place is Euro-inspired MarieBette, where you can find Parisian treats from baguettes to pain au chocolat.

CHINESE

Peter Chang China Grill

Runner-up: Red Lantern

Honorable mention: Taste of China

It’s hard to mention Peter Chang China Grill without using the word “elusive”—for so long, its namesake chef was difficult to pin down, having moved from Fairfax to Georgia to Tennessee and then some. By the time he opened Peter Chang China Grill in Barracks Road North Wing in 2011, though, the jig was up: A preview of his award-winning skills at 29N’s Taste of China had already left diners anticipating the menu to come. Though Chang’s long gone, having opened seven more eponymous spots elsewhere in as many years, the Szechuan specialties at PCCG have been hard to top. In second place, Red Lantern is your choice for no-frills Chinese fare and reliable delivery.

STEAK

Downtown Grille

Runner-up: Aberdeen Barn

Honorable mention: The Local

Even as new trends continue to pop up across the local dining scene, a great steak, we’d contend, never goes out of style. Around these parts, readers say the Downtown Grille, with its prime menu of ribeyes, strips and filets, is your pick for a classic T-bone and martini. Runner-up Aberdeen Barn has been cooking your Angus steaks and roast prime rib to perfection—over a charcoal hearth, no less—since 1965.

VEGETARIAN-FRIENDLY

Revolutionary Soup

Runner-up: Roots Natural Kitchen

Honorable mention: Brazos Tacos

The Three Sisters soup, the Roquefort salad, the black bean and spinach wrap: Whatever your pleasure, readers agree Revolutionary Soup satisfies any number of meat- free cravings from both its downtown and Corner locations. And, in 2017, the restaurant re-introduced its poetry discount: Recite five lines from the work of a featured poet and get 10 percent off your order. On West Main Street, Roots offers a customizable salad bowl menu for even the pickiest of palates.

DIETARY- OR ALLERGY-FRIENDLY

The Juice Laundry

Runner-up: Burtons Grill

Honorable mention: Brazos Tacos

It’s easy to be dietary-friendly when your ingredients are 100 percent pure and 100 percent organic, as they are at The Juice Laundry. The Preston Avenue smoothie bar serves an impossibly delicious (sprouts, parsley, cilantro, jalapeño? We’ll never know why that works), all-natural menu of cold-pressed juices, bowls and cleanses to help you meet your daily nutrition requirements. Allergy-friendly chain Burtons Grill accommodates guests with specific restrictions (peanuts, gluten and then some) with an accessible menu and strict prep protocols.


Illustration: Jason Crosby

C-VILLE SAYS BEST PLACE TO HOP IN

Gettin’ crafty

The Brew Betties are tapped in to good beer

While passing out samples of craft beer several years ago during a fundraiser at Washington Park, Anne Sweazey had an “aha” moment: Women dig hoppy beer as much as men. And based on the conversations she had that afternoon, Sweazey thought it would be fun to drink beer on a regular basis with some of those women.

Which is why, in the fall of 2013, Sweazey found herself papering women’s restrooms and area breweries with fliers that announced the inaugural meeting of the Brew Betties, an all-female beer club that’s “committed to furthering knowledge about craft beer through fun and inclusive programming.”

To be clear, though, Sweazey wasn’t looking for people to get drunk with at happy hours. The Brew Betties is “not about going out with girls and getting blasted,” she says. The group’s meetups are educational, such as the Halloween blind-tasting of pumpkin beers at Sweazey’s house, or behind-the-scenes tours of several local breweries. And then there are homebrewing sessions, bottle swaps, after-work gatherings and a dinner, where small plates of food are paired with small pours, and an area brewer explains why certain beers go with certain food.

“We have a lot of fun, but we also take it very seriously,” says Sweazey, adding that the Brew Betties are a diverse group of women that ranges in age from mid-20s to 60-something. At any given gathering, you’ll find teachers, nurses, scientists and editors in a room, all discussing the pros and cons of a variety of craft brews.

Jenny Whedbee, the Brew Betties’ very first member, says she went to the club’s initial gathering at Citizen Burger Bar because “Why not? I love craft beers. But when I first joined, I only liked ambers and pilsners. Since then, I have graduated to IPAs, Belgians, sours, Kolsch and stouts—the options are endless.”

Whedbee says she also enjoys the brewing process. “It’s fun to do a homebrew with the group, and a privilege to brew annually on the commercial system at Three Notch’d brewery,” which does a collaboration beer with the Betties that benefits a charity. She says Dave Warwick, Three Notch’d’s brewmaster, still calls her “Hot Legs” because she got injured when the hops boiled over and splashed the back of her leg.

“It was just a small, superficial thing,” she quickly adds, and says that while the group’s regular events are always a good time, the Betties’ real draw is spending time with “smart, like-minded women” who “are interesting and fun to talk to and drink beer with.”—SS


KID-FRIENDLY

Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie

Runner-up: Brazos Tacos

Honorable mention: Tip Top

Don’t chew with your mouth open, don’t eat with your elbows on the table—there are so many rules for kids come dinnertime. But even Emily Post knows that eating pizza with your hands is not only acceptable, it’s part of the experience (no foolin’, she says it’s A-okay). Dr. Ho’s gives families a reason to dig in, from cheeseburger pizza to the classic Humble Pie. Over at IX, youngsters grab a few Brazos tacos, then go play in the nearby grassy field while their parents sip a watermelon marg.

Photo: Tom McGovern
COMFORT FOOD

Riverside Lunch

Runner-up: BBQ Exchange

Honorable mention: Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint

To be considered true comfort food, experts (i.e. this writer) agree a dish must have two things: It must be warm (extra points if there’s a bit of grease involved) and it must be served somewhere without a hint of pretension. Riverside’s burgers—smashed, fried and served all the way, on a paper plate—hit the spot every time. Gordonsville barbecue spot BBQ Exchange checks both boxes, too, with a menu of Southern staples out of its barn-inspired interior.

FRIED CHICKEN

Wayside Fried Chicken

Runner-up: Michie Tavern

Honorable mention: Ace Biscuit & Barbecue

In 2014, Malcolm Gladwell posed a theory that in order to become an expert in something, you need to have done that thing for 10,000 hours. That would explain, then, why Wayside is our area’s standard-bearer for crispy, juicy, classic fried chicken: The JPA spot has been serving its ole Virginia version for more than 50 years (translation: more than 100,000 hours). At historic Michie Tavern, try anything on the buffet of Southern staples—mashed potatoes, mac ‘n’ cheese, stewed tomatoes—but don’t skimp on the yard bird, baked or fried.

BURGER

Citizen Burger Bar

Runner-up: Riverside Lunch

Honorable mention: Jack Brown’s Beer & Burger Joint

You pledge allegiance to the grass-fed beef on the patty of Citizen’s burgers, and to the Albemarle Baking Co. bun on which it stands, one lunch special under a fried pickle, with mushrooms and Swiss cheese for all. In the runner-up spot, Riverside’s double cheeseburgers never diminish in your estimation.


Photo (left): Tristan Williams

C-VILLE SAYS BEST HOG TALE

Tap topper goes wild

Meet the pig seen ’round the world

Some call her Esmeralda and some just call her Piggy, but either way, the folks at Livery Stable are happy to have her back.

For it wasn’t long ago that this little swine took the trip of a lifetime, stolen from her home atop a tap at the bar and lugged to cities and countries across the continental United States and beyond, at the hands of two folks named Ben and Reina.

“I have no idea who these people are,” says owner Ian Dugger, while turning over a scrapbook titled Esmeralda’s Epic Adventure. That’s right—not only did two drunken youngsters steal her from the bar and tote her to five different continents, but they documented it along the way, and eventually gave her back with a scrapbook detailing the journey—a piggy passport, if you will.

According to the scrapbook, Esmeralda started her vacation in Charlottesville, dropping by Fridays After Five and catching an A University of Whales concert at The Southern, and even going to a UVA frat party where she was allegedly “savage at beer pong.”

But it wasn’t long before she was off drinking coffee at Mono Lake, California, cruising on a boat off the Banks Peninsula in New Zealand, eating kimchi in Seoul and coughing through smog at the Tokyo Tower in Japan. She was only “mildly impressed” by London and her five-hour layover in Iceland to get to Spain, where she “took a pill in Mallorca,” and later snuggled up to Reina in Casablanca. And this barely scratches the surface.

You might wonder how it happened. How could the folks at Livery let such a prized possession out of their sight? “If you know my bartenders like I know them, everything is possible,” says Dugger.

Don’t believe us? You can drop by the bar to peruse the book for yourself, but we’re warning you: It’s for mature audiences only. (The porker might’ve done a thing or two she was ashamed of the next morning.)—SB


BBQ

BBQ Exchange

Runner-up: Ace Biscuit & Barbecue

Honorable mention: Smoked Kitchen and Tap

Like pasta or pancakes, barbecue is a culinary minefield: It looks simple (just slow-roast it and you’re done, no?), but make one wrong step and you’re toast. Luckily, chef Craig Hartman has the chops to take his Gordonsville joint to the top of all the “best barbecue” lists. Since 2010, the former fancy-food chef has taken his fine dining know- how and applied it to pork belly, brisket and then some, earning repeat customers who travel from all over the state to get a taste. In town, hole-in-the-wall Ace offers a menu of from-scratch, down-home favorites.

WINGS

Wild Wing Café

Runner-up: Wings Over Charlottesville

Honorable mention: Lazy Parrot Backyard BBQ

Menu hack: To get a taste of a restaurant’s menu, start by eating lunch there first. True, there aren’t many surprises here (it’s wings, man), but the Amtrak station spot offers a mean lunch deal: all-you-can-eat wings for $12.99. You start with 12, and if you think you can handle more, add on six by six with various flavors of sauce until you’re stuffed. Then come back for dinner. Wings Over Charlottesville takes second place with a wide variety of sauces, meaty wings and quick delivery.

PIZZA

Lampo

Runner-up: Dr. Ho’s Humble Pie

Honorable mention: Christian’s Pizza

“Now who ever heard of cutting pizza with scissors?” you can hear your grandmother say. Of course, Lampo isn’t your grandmother’s pizza place…unless your grandmother’s Italian. The Neapolitan joint has been officially certified for authenticity by the Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana, which means it meets requirements for ingredients, cook time and temperature set forth by the Italian organization. It also, say readers, meets requirements for best pizza in the land. Over in North Garden, Dr. Ho’s takes a more Southern approach, with specialty pies and create-your-own concoctions.

FROZEN TREAT

Splendora’s Gelato

Runner-up: Chaps Ice Cream

Honorable mention: La Flor Michoacana

Splendy’s, for those in the know, is more than just your average gelato shop. Owner PK Ross dreams up inventive recipes, like peach pie or yuzu, to push you outside of your chocolate-or-vanilla comfort zone. And, recently, Ross has expanded her offerings: Don’t miss gelato sandwiches, which combine the downtown shop owner’s unique flavors with cookies from Belmont’s found. market. Just down the mall, Chaps gives you that old-school ice cream shop experience, with oh-so-cozy booths and classic flavors like butter pecan or cherry vanilla.

Photo: Jeffrey Gleason
DESSERT MENU

Oakhart Social

Runner-up: Fleurie

Honorable mention: Bang!

With a menu that’s rave-worthy from top to bottom (the Brussels sprouts! the wangz! the wood-fired oysters!), it’s almost a shame to call out Oakhart for its desserts alone. But the work chef Tristan Wraight and his team at Oakhart are doing for our sweet tooths (sweet teeth?) is certainly as noteworthy as the rest of the menu. Take, for instance, the uber-popular bread pudding, which is essentially a deconstructed s’more: A smear of chocolate pudding coats the plate and is accompanied by generous, lightly torched dollops of marshmallow, pillowy squares of bread and a few handfuls of puppy chow. At Fleurie, pastry chef Serge Torres creates French dinner-enders that are not only stunning in flavor, but almost—we said almost!—too pretty to eat.


Artist Bolanle Adeboye’s Belmont mural raises more questions than it answers—but that’s the point. Photo: Stephen Barling

C-VILLE SAYS BEST SNACK FOR ACTIV(IST) APPETITES

Holding ground

Sally Hemings tribute gives rise to biscuit speculation

First developed in plantation kitchens from a British cracker-like version, the American biscuit is deeply rooted in Southern culture. Recently determined by a local food blog to be Charlottesville’s signature food item, homages to the flaky round are everywhere in our town, including an enigmatic storefront in the Belmont neighborhood. Delineated by a mural that reads “Tom & Sally Tin of Southern Biscuits,” the spot offers a lot to digest.

The painting, by artist Bolanle Adeboye, shows a determined-looking Sally Hemings eye-to-eye with the nickel profile of Thomas Jefferson against the iconic silhouette of Monticello, in the orange and blue color scheme of Mr. J’s university. Adeboye painted the image years ago when her friend and creator of Pantheon Popsicles, James Rucker, was riffing on the idea of a new business and commissioned it as a logo design.

“The initial idea dates back to a popsicle he used to make called the Tom & Sally that was expressly forbidden to be served at a Monticello function,” says Adeboye. “So when he was thinking about a line of biscuits, he approached me and asked me to design him something prominently featuring Sally.” Rucker hoped the art would counteract what he thought was an attempt by the zeitgeist, at the time, to sweep “the whole Hemings business” under the rug.

For Rucker, “The art is saying that Sally Hemings is an authentic American historical figure, more so than Jefferson’s wife, Martha Jefferson, who was just a Virginia aristocrat who married another Virginia aristocrat,” says Adeboye. “Sally Hemings, of course, is African and making the best of a horrible situation with dignity. And the ‘tin of Southern biscuits’ is a can of worms that Monticello unwillingly will acknowledge when forced to.”

There’s been a lot of salivating over the prospect of actual biscuits in the former Pantheon space, but Rucker says Tom & Sally was never a serious business idea. Even so, it offers us plenty of food for thought.—TK


ANNUAL FOOD AND DRINK EVENT

Porkapolooza

Runner-up: Taste of Monticello Wine Trail Festival

Honorable mention: Know Good Beer Festival

There’s a date in mid-February that gives us the warm-fuzzies. The world turns pork, er, pink and there’s love and hope in the air again. …Or is that the smell of smoking pig? We don’t mean Valentine’s Day (though love is certainly involved): Come rain or shine, BBQ Exchange’s annual Porkapolooza is February’s best day, readers say. Each year, chef Craig Hartman presents an all-you-can-eat menu for those willing to belly up to the Gordonsville restaurant for an $18 entrance fee. Monticello’s Wine Trail fest in May gives locals a sip of the AVA, with winemaker dinners, winery tours and a grand tasting event.

SPOT WHEN THE BOSS IS BUYING

The Alley Light

Runner-up: Hamiltons’ at First & Main

Honorable mention: Downtown Grille

Would it be considered a missed opportunity dining at a place where the plates are small and the cocktails plentiful? No, say readers. That’s just what you want when you’re out with your company’s head honcho. Whether you’re getting a raise or getting berated, everything goes down a little smoother with barkeep Micah LeMon’s classic Manhattan. Hamiltons’ keeps it classy with reliable service and the ever-popular Blue Plate Special (or, if you’re really going for it, may we recommend the crab cakes?).

LGBT-FRIENDLY BUSINESS

MarieBette Café & Bakery

Runner-up: Firefly

Honorable mention: Feast!

In Shakespeare’s Twelfth Night, The Bard writes, “If music be the food of love, play on.” Pardon us, Bill, but we’d wager you’ve never tried a MarieBette baguette. Or an almond croissant. Or any number of things on the Rose Hill Drive patisserie’s menu. If you had, you’d know that baked goods are the food of love. They’re the great equalizer. Who cares who you’re into, as long as you love butter, sugar and flour? At Firefly, all are welcome to knock back a few local brews on draft or try their hand at a game of pinball.

FEMALE-OWNED BUSINESS

Al Carbon

Runner-up: Spring Creek EyeCare

Honorable mention: The Brow House

Opening a restaurant in Charlottesville is no easy feat; there are more than 400 in our area, so making an immediate impression on diners is paramount to success. Luckily for Myriam Hernandez and her husband, Claudio, their order-at-the-counter Mexican street food joint has just what we’ve all been craving. And, with their newest venture, Chew Chew Town, which opened in early 2018 just two doors down, the couple is expanding their reach to a younger set—kids come in, order a burrito and wait for their meal to arrive by train. In second place, Jaime Easton’s Spring Creek optometry practice provides quality care.